A narrow waterway separates Guadeloupe’s two largest islands, whose wing-like shapes inspired the nickname – “le papillon,” or butterfly – for this overseas department of France. The busy port town of Pointe-à-Pitre sits on the eastern island of Grande-Terre near the bridges to Basse-Terre, offering easy access to both. Grande-Terre is known for beautiful sandy beaches, the most popular along the reef-sheltered southern coast, and restaurants serving Guadeloupe’s best Creole cuisine. Basse-Terre is forested and mountainous – the active volcano La Grande Soufrière is the tallest peak. Its beaches are strikingly diverse, ranging from sugar white to volcanic ebony. On Basse-Terre’s quieter west coast, Plage de la Malendure is a leading diving center. Back in port, the Mémorial ACTe museum, dedicated to the complex global history of slavery, has been a top attraction since opening in 2015.