Stunning beaches, cerulean seas, colorful coral reefs and the Caribbean’s largest wildlife preserve: incredible tropical nature is the essence of Vieques, a small island less than 10 miles off the east coast of Puerto Rico. For decades most of the island was controlled by the U.S. Navy, whose former holdings – some 70 percent of the land – became the Vieques National Wildlife Refuge after the military withdrew in 2003. The refuge features Vieques’ best beaches, acres of forest, and coastal habitats that encompass mangroves, reefs, sea grass beds, lagoons and open waters, as well as bioluminescent bays that make for a spectacular experience after dark. The refuge shelters a diverse array of wildlife, including nearly 200 species of resident and migratory birds and four types of sea turtles. On the south coast, the fishing village of Esperanza is the island’s main hub, where life continues to follow traditional rhythms.